What Boothbay Harbor in winter is really like
Boothbay Harbor in winter is a different town from the one on the postcards. The tour boats are out of the water, many shops and restaurants close for the season, and the streets that are packed in July are nearly empty. What is left is the harbor itself, cold clear air, snow on the docks some mornings, and a pace that feels very far from the rest of the year.
It is not for everyone. If you want boat trips, a long list of restaurants and every shop open, come between May and October. If you want quiet, long walks and a town that feels like it belongs to the people who live in it, winter is the season for you.
December: the lights
Late November through December is the busiest stretch of the cold season, and for good reason. Gardens Aglow at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens lights the paths and woods a few miles from town, and Boothbay Lights dresses the downtown, with a tree lighting and a lighted boat parade on the harbor.
We have written a full guide to Gardens Aglow and the holiday season separately. The short version: book early for the weekends around Thanksgiving and the week before Christmas, and dress for a cold evening walk.
January to March: the quiet months
Once the lights come down, the town settles into its quietest stretch. Some of our regulars prefer it. You can walk the length of the waterfront and see three other people. The footbridge is yours. On the coldest mornings, sea smoke rises off the harbor as the frigid air meets the warmer water, and it is one of the stranger and more beautiful things you will see on this coast.
Winter is also a good time for birds. Sea ducks, loons and other winter visitors work the harbor and the coves, and seals haul out on the ledges. A pair of binoculars and a walk along the shore will fill an hour.
Things to do when the town is quiet
The Boothbay Region Land Trust keeps more than thirty miles of free public trails across the peninsula, and in a snowy week they are the best outing in the region. Snowshoe or ski through the spruce, then come out on a cove or a tidal channel with nobody else around. Penny Lake Preserve is the easiest walk. Ovens Mouth and Porter Preserve reward the extra effort. Bring your own gear.
Indoors, the Boothbay Harbor Opera House keeps a year-round calendar of concerts and films, and the Harbor Theater shows first-run and independent films through the winter. The Boothbay Region Historical Society and the public library on Oak Street are good places to spend a gray afternoon.
- Snowshoe or ski the Boothbay Region Land Trust trails
- Walk the empty waterfront and the footbridge
- Watch for sea smoke on the coldest mornings
- Look for sea ducks, loons and seals from the shore
- A concert or film at the Opera House or Harbor Theater
- A slow lunch somewhere with the heat turned up
Where to eat in winter
Fewer places open, so plan around the ones that do. Brady's, on the water on Union Street, stays open all year and is a local standby when much of the town has closed. Red Cup Coffeehouse on Townsend Avenue and Footbridge Brewery by the footbridge are year-round as well, and the East Boothbay General Store keeps the village fed in every season.
Others keep shorter winter hours or close for a few weeks after the holidays. Call before you drive, and book dinner on Friday and Saturday even in January, because when only a few kitchens are open, they fill.
Getting here and getting around
Route 1 and Route 27 are plowed and well traveled, and the drive from Portland is still about an hour and a quarter in good conditions. Check the weather the morning you leave and allow extra time. A car with good tires matters more here than in a city, because the trails, the gardens and Ocean Point are all a drive.
Ocean Point is worth the trip in winter. The shore road is empty, the surf is bigger, and Ram Island Light sits out on its ledge as it has for more than a century. Go on a clear afternoon and bring a warm hat.
Staying with Greenleaf Inns in the cold months
Greenleaf Inn and Admiral's Quarters Inn sit on Commercial Street on the ridge above the harbor. Every room has its own heating, the Greenleaf living room has a wood-burning fireplace, and several Admiral's Quarters rooms have gas stoves. The glass solarium at Admiral's Quarters is the best seat in the house on a sunny cold morning.
Our dates outside the main season change from year to year, so ask about winter dates before you plan. Call (207) 633-3100 and the innkeeper will tell you what is open, ours included, for the weeks you have in mind.
Questions we get asked
Is Boothbay Harbor worth visiting in winter?
If you want quiet, yes. Expect empty streets, snowshoe trails and a few year-round restaurants, not boat tours or a full town.
Is Boothbay Harbor open in winter?
Partly. Many seasonal shops, boats and restaurants close, while places like Brady's, Red Cup Coffeehouse, Footbridge Brewery and the Opera House keep going. Call ahead.
Do boat tours run in winter?
The main harbor cruises and whale watches run from spring into October. Plan on seeing the harbor from the shore in winter.
What is there to do in Boothbay Harbor in January?
Snowshoe or ski the land trust trails, walk the waterfront, watch for sea smoke and seabirds, see a film or concert, and drive out to Ocean Point.
When is Gardens Aglow?
From the second half of November through December at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Check the Gardens for the current year's dates.
Are Greenleaf Inns open in winter?
Winter dates change from year to year. Call (207) 633-3100 and ask about winter dates before you plan.
